Savoring Alaska In “O” Style Aboard Oceania Cruises’ Riviera

A recent 12-night Alaska cruise on Oceania Cruises‘ Riviera was my first since the 66,172-gross-ton, 1,250-guest beauty’s maiden cruise in 2012. In the years since, Oceania was purchased by Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings and the Riviera was given a makeover in 2022, with restyled suite and cabin accommodations and revamped public spaces. There have been other changes, some subtle, others less so, but overall I’m happy to report that this ship remains one of my favorites, along with her twin, the 2011-built Marina.

Along with the Marina, the “O Class” Riviera is considered mid-sized by today’s standards. The ships are only 2/3 as large as the latest Holland America and Cunard ships, approximately half the size of the new Celebrity X Class, and a third the size of Princess Sphere Class, giving her a far more human scale than most of her premium competitors. There are no fancy bells and whistles, just a well-designed, spacious and comfortable ship that provides some of the best food and service in the upper premium cruise market.

Being greeted after crossing the gangway in Seattle with a chilled flute of Prosecco as the Sunrise String Quartet serenaded from the double-deck reception lobby, festooned in Lalique crystal made for a grand first, or in my case, second, impression that set the tone for the rest of the cruise.

But, before we continue, here’s a deck-by-deck video tour I also produced about this, one of my favorite ships:

(For more ship video tours, please visit my Youtube channel, MidShipCinema.)

Stately Staterooms

My partner Mike and I occupied a 291-sq.-ft. Concierge Veranda stateroom, which had the basic amenities and layout of a standard Veranda Stateroom, with a few extra perks like access to the concierge lounge (where coffee, tea and light snacks are available), priority dining reservations, complimentary soft drinks in the stateroom fridge, complimentary access to the AquaMar Spa terrace (otherwise there is a $25-per-person, per-day fee), and three bags of free laundry service.

Our stateroom was well designed with a nice sitting area with a settee, coffee table and desk, and the king-sized bed was very comfortable (and had fantastic pillows). The closet was very hard to access via a narrow gap between the bed, the sliding door, and the end table but overall there was adequate storage space when you could get to it. Thankfully, after opening them up, our large suitcases fit snugly under the bed. 

The bathrooms are gorgeous with their marble surfacing and abundant storage, with a vanity and cabinet with plenty of drawers, so if you are a “product” person, this is your ship! 

The showers are large and have a place to sit if you just want to enjoy getting wet for a while via a rainforest, as well as a handheld nozzle. And for those who shave their legs, there is a small bar to put your foot on. The latter was a big deal when the O Class ships came out.

Our stewards were excellent and very attentive to detail, keeping our stateroom spotless and providing those little extras like an ice bucket, ice, and extra pillows upon request.

Riviera has seven overall categories of staterooms, ranging from palatial 2,000-sq.-ft. Owner’s Suites, occupying the entire width of the ship at the stern, to comfortable insides. All were refurbished and updated with new soft fittings in her recent refit.

The Riviera will undergo another refit and upgrade in 2028.

Topsides Tour

At the top of the ship on Deck 16, you will find an observation terrace, a nine-hole putting green, a pickleball court and a net-enclosed driving range.

On forward Deck 15, Horizons is an observation lounge, refreshed with new decor in 2022. It features great views of the sea on either side and a bird’s-eye view of the spa terrace forward. There is even a glass-enclosed smoking area in Horizons on its aft/port side. 

Quiet throughout the day, Horizons is a great place to relax. And at 3:30, it hosts an afternoon tea, which is very civilized. But for those of us who were early Oceania fans, a slight disappointment. In the pre-NCL days, tea on Oceania meant actual tea leaves with lovely little timers. And now, it constitutes choosing a Twinings bag from a very nice little wooden box, although the white-gloved waiters with serving carts offering sandwiches and treats are still a nice touch. At night, Horizons hosts the ship’s Rei Band, who play Disco and Top 40 hits into the wee hours.

The aft portion of Deck 15 has a jogging track (10 circuits equals a mile) that encircles the funnel, a shuffleboard court, and a bocce ball/cricket court.

The AquaMar Spa is at the forward end of Deck 14, featuring men’s and women’s changing and steam areas, a large Jacuzzi, and a sheltered teak-lined terrace with cushioned loungers, a relaxation room, and numerous treatment rooms. Adjoining on the starboard side, there is an aerobics studio, and a well-equipped gym. Deck 14 continues with an open walking deck that encircles the lido on the deck below.

On aft Deck 14, at the base of the funnel, you will find the bustling Baristas, where you can order everything from a freshly brewed Illy espresso to lattes, cappuccinos (alternate “milks” like soy, almond and oat are available), and special smoothies, all included in the fare. There is an adjoining lounge with full-length windows and a snack counter with breakfast and lunch treats. Every other morning, they served caneles, which are lovely bell-shaped pastries with a caramelized custard center, an Oceania specialty that hails from Bordeaux. 

On the port side, aft of Baristas, there is a small computer learning center and a wonderful library with several small nooks, a large selection of books, and a very pleasing tartan and ash wood veneered decor. It’s another great place to sit back and relax in, that is, if you can find a seat.

The Culinary Center is on the port side at the forward end of Deck 11, where cooking classes are offered for a fee. On the starboard side, there is the Artists Loft, which was originally used for complimentary arts and crafts classes, and is now an art gallery pitching various artworks for sale.

The beautiful teak-lined, midship lido features a large pool and Jacuzzi, as well as open and sheltered sunning terraces lined with cushioned loungers, and is served by the Waves Bar on its forward/port side. 

Accommodations can be found on Decks 10, 9, 8 and 7.

Lower Deck Luxe

Down on Deck 6, public areas continue with the Upper Hall or balcony level of the reception area, which is opulent to the point of extravagance; with its massive crystal chandelier and sweeping grand staircase.

Finite sheltered promenades on either side are no longer open for guests’ use, which is one of my very few pet peeves about the “O” Class. I really think premium ships should have a wraparound promenade like the ones offered on the Viking ships and earlier HAL, Princess, and Celebrity ships, or at least finite promenades like the original “R” Class have, where you can take a stroll in the fresh sea air near the water or even sit on a cushioned deck chair.

Just aft of the Upper Hall on Deck 6, you will find the Martini Bar, a wonderful space with comfortable and rich fittings that are embellished with dramatic and eye-catching artworks. The bar is on the aft port side, and in the room’s center, there is a gorgeous Macassar Ebony piano that comes to life each evening with a pianist crooning Top 40 and jazz standards before and after dinner. On the starboard side, a lovely gallery with seating called the Grand Bar continues all the way aft to the Grand Dining Room. 

On the port side, there is the Casino and the Casino Bar, which is a nice hideaway that boasts several Picasso sketches.

On Deck 5, the Riviera Lounge is the ship’s showroom, which is hit and miss. Overall, it is a pleasant space with a great amount of legroom between the rows, but the sight lines are compromised by pillars in the side and aft sections. If you dine late and come to the shows in progress, finding a seat is a major challenge, in part because there is only one show per night.

I was also surprised that the ship’s talented production company only performed on four of the 12 nights, and again, just one – and not two – shows per night. On alternate nights, there was a magician, one of the ship’s singers doing a Lionel Ritchie tribute, the cruise director’s one-man show, and a guest violinist.

A noteworthy standout on the Riviera and her twin, Marina, are the lavish artworks curated by Oceania’s founder and former CEO, Frank Del Rio. These multimillion-dollar collections are filled with sculptures, Murano glass, paintings, and drawings that give the ships a vibrant personality and flair.

I can’t say I loved everything on board, but I enjoyed looking at the variety and scope of art, which has a heavy Cuban and Cubist influence, with Picasso-inspired works that share the space with actual Picassos. And kudos to the inspired mind at Oceania that came up with the art scavenger hunt filled with tiny elements of 50 works that were fun to locate during the cruise and even had many of us wandering around in the wee hours trying to find clues.

Caveat Emptor

And now for the best part, the food! This is where, even after some recent cutbacks, Oceania is still leagues ahead of the competition, with one or two exceptions.

But, let’s get the caveats over with.

The Terrace Cafe, the ship’s informal buffet venue, was a rare source of disappointment on this latest cruise. 

Breakfast was uninspired and budget cutting was apparent with inedible tough melons, flavorless fruit and juices and cheap yogurt selections (Activia, low-fat Chobani). The only saving grace was the omelet and fresh egg station, but that often required waiting in line for up to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, the parfaits were soggy, the eggs (only scrambled) flavorless, and the overall lack of variety and quality was enough to make me want to skip breakfast on days the Grand Dining Room wasn’t open.

And pretty much the same for lunch, although it was a bit better than breakfast. Hot dishes like fish, meat, vegetable, and potato sides were available at the main counter. The salad bar was limited with the same basic choices every day, occasionally highlighted with some pre-made Greek, Caesar and seafood-enhanced options. As with breakfast, the best option was the pasta station, where some Asian and Italian specialties were freshly prepared, if you were willing to stand in line a bit. 

The Terrace was very crowded at peak lunchtime, more so when the Grand Dining Room was not open, and especially when the Alaskan weather was too wet or cold for dining on the aft terrace. This venue quickly wore out its welcome for us and needless to say, we never took dinner in the Terrace, with all the other excellent options to choose from.

Another dining choice that didn’t necessarily wow was the Waves Grill, but to be fair, it is just a casual pool-adjacent burger eatery. I found it curious that with burgers, hot dogs and fish sandwiches, there wasn’t a chicken sandwich option, although you could get chicken keftas with mint yogurt sauce. Those were good and the sweet potato fries were excellent. Overall, it was fine as a convenient and relatively quick venue. And the self-service salad bar was a nice alternative to the one in the Terrace Grill, but also not outstanding.

Grand Taste & Style

With the O and Vista Class ships, in addition to the Terrace and Waves, Oceania offers no less than five included-in-the-fare dining options. The Vista Class actually has six, with the AquaMar (light and healthy cuisine, which will be replacing the Tastings wine bar on the port side of Deck 12 in the Riviera’s next refit).

The Grand Dining Room on aft Deck 6 is one of the handsomest dining rooms at sea, with its extra ceiling height, rings of brilliant crystal chandeliers adorning its center, full-length windows on three sides, and a lovely, restrained gold and white color scheme.

From the table settings with brightly polished silver, flowers, linen napkins, and gold filigreed chargers, to the crispy, flaky breads, proper stemware and doting service, every meal here was something to look forward to. The Grand was a must for breakfast on those occasional mornings we actually ate breakfast, and when open for lunch, it really was a far more civilized and relaxing option than Waves.

Some favorites included a filo dough-encrusted Mediterranean chicken purse, Jerusalem artichoke cream cheese tart, spaghetti alla puttanesca, a roasted yogurt-marinated chicken with couscous and harissa sauce, grilled beef sirloin steak with roquefort sauce, and a grilled salmon fillet with hollandaise sauce.

Especial-ty Delicious!

And now for the included-in-the-fare, reservations-required specialty restaurants. Prior to the cruise, reservations open for guests to book one dinner in each, but the times provided tend to be late in the evening, which was often in conflict with the once per night show in the theater. 

If you want an early dining time and possibly even add a night or two of specialty dining (space depending), I recommend visiting the concierge immediately upon boarding. It is well worth queuing up for. And the nice thing is that if there is a wait, to help pass the time, those welcome glasses of chilled Prosecco are usually only steps away. Without much fuss, we were able to switch to a couple earlier times that were not available in advance. And we even were able to add an extra night in two of our favorites, Toscana and Red Ginger.

Toscana, of course, is the Italian restaurant. Located on aft Deck 14, it has full-length windows, with views of the sea on the port and aft sides, and a soothing autumnal color scheme with deep blue accents, Tuscan-themed art panels, and plenty of space between tables.

The breads are perfection and come with a head of garlic and chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, followed by an olive oil and balsamic vinegar cart, stocked with delicious, tangy and aromatic choices. Old school Oceania fans like me know that it used to be even more lavish with a dedicated olive oil cart and a dedicated balsamic vinegar cart. But to help trim costs and dining times, in recent years they were combined.

The service was doting, and the included wine selections were excellent. (Our Concierge-level status provided wine and beer during lunch and dinner in all venues.)

The minestrone soup and tableside-prepared Caesar salad are among my longtime favorites. Some other appetizers we particularly enjoyed were the stuffed artichokes with Pecorino and the Insalate Caprese with buffalo mozzarella. Among the 11 pasta offerings, we loved the Lasagne alla Bolognese, the angel hair capellini sorrentina, penne primavera al tartufo, and the gnocchi with pesto sauce. A dozen main courses included choices like Maine lobster, sautéed Dover sole, branzino in lemon caper sauce, and Mike’s favorite, a roasted stuffed lamb loin with eggplant and spinach.

And while I’m not a huge tiramisu fan these days, I have to hand it to Toscana for making one of the best at sea – perhaps because they inundate it with powdered chocolate.

I haven’t eaten red meat in almost 35 years, and yet, I love the Polo Grill because it is so much more than just a steakhouse. This handsome space on the starboard side of aft Deck 14, boasts dark wood tones, maroon leather seating, and deep green soft fittings. We couldn’t alter our 9 p.m. dinner time, but with a lovely table for two by the window and a dramatic Alaskan sunset that literally lasted 90 minutes, it couldn’t have been a more epic dinner setting.

Including Mike’s full-fledged “carnivore” selections, our top picks are the roasted beetroot and garlic goat cheese Napoleon, Chesapeake Bay lump crab cakes and escargot with chive sauce starters, the New England clam chowder and lobster bisque, the beefsteak tomato, and sweet onion salad. And for the mains, the crispy roasted chicken with Alderwood-smoked salt, the queen’s cut prime rib, the filet mignon, and the rack of lamb, with sides of sautéed onions, Idaho baked potato, haricots verts, creamed spinach, and crispy onion rings.

Red Ginger is the pan-Asian eatery on the port side of Deck 5. It is a handsome space with a soaring ceiling on its inboard side and booth seating on the port side, curiously without windows. An evening in Red Ginger begins with a dash of water on a napkin pellet that expands before your eyes, which is handy for cleansing the fingertips after the edamame amuse bouche. Waiters next present a box of chopsticks with some rather elegant-looking and -feeling choices. And there is even a nice tea menu (included) with options like oolong, jasmine green, and ginseng. Another nice plus is that there are a couple of Asian beers (Sapporo and Singha) available.

Our favorites, reinforced with a second visit, were the vegetable tempura (so good!), the chicken satay, the tom kha kai (chicken coconut soup), miso soup, the tangy Thai chicken salad, the vegetable curry, the chicken curry, and the Chilean sea bass, capped off with steamed ginger cake and matcha (green tea) ice cream.

On the starboard side in the corresponding space on Deck 5, Jacques is named for Oceania’s executive chef emeritus Jacques Pépin, whose resume includes being a personal chef for Charles De Gaulle and working with Julia Child. In this provincial French-style eatery, the decor, which was curated by Pepin, has wood-like flooring, trellises and some lovely artworks. Unlike Red Ginger, it has windows that provide inspiring views from near sea level.

Among the standout courses were the flaky, crispy breads, the French onion soup, escargot, the crab salad, the Boston lettuce with Roquefort cheese (yes, the same one as in the Grand Dining Room), the roasted lamb rack and rotisserie chicken with ratatouille, rotisserie potatoes, cauliflower au gratin and those always tasty haricots verts.

Because it was Mike’s birthday, we were presented with a delicious cake and didn’t have gastronomic space to indulge in the regular desserts.

There is also an impressive room service menu that we tried out for breakfast. But once was enough as we like to sleep in whenever possible. Nonetheless, the timing was just as requested and the courses were all at the right temperature and fresh. Room service, of course, is included with Oceania, unlike some other lines that are now charging.

One option that is not included, Privée, is a private dining room seating 10, sandwiched between Toscana and Polo Grill. They provide curated dining and pairing experiences that begin at $95 per person and go up from there, depending on the menu and wines.

Another additional-charge experience located on aft Deck 12, near the port side entrance to Waves, is Tastings, which had several tasting and pairing offerings during our cruise and will soon be replaced by the AquaMar Restaurant.

Hits, Misses & What To Pack

There was a wide variety of excursions offered in each port but the pricing was way beyond our budget, and after well over a dozen Alaska cruises, we have both pretty much seen and done everything there – save for the world’s longest zip line at Icy Strait Point. Priced at the rather princely per-person sum of $269, it was one of the cheaper excursions and one worth trying. 

In addition to the pricing, the information provided, beyond the printed materials, was lacking. There was one shore excursion lecture on the first day that was not recorded for guests to watch on the in-cabin televisions, so if you couldn’t attend, you would have to queue up at the shore excursions office for any needed information.

I do hope that Oceania ups the ante here along with their very limited enrichment lecture program. The live presentations are sometimes a conflict with other activities and if you miss them, you’re out of luck. On most premium ships, you can catch up by watching in the stateroom at your leisure.

Another strange miss is that Oceania does not provide an app to access during the voyage to keep track of the day’s events. Although I am old school and prefer printed programs, some guests were piqued about this.

On the plus side, the complimentary presentations on photography, videography and how to get the most out of your iPhone or Android were fantastic and full of useful tips. Other scheduled activities included bocce ball, carpet bowls, dart throwing, ping pong, trivia quizzes, and pickleball. One particularly fun diversion we enjoyed over several days was identifying various parts of the huge art collection on the Art Scavenger Hunt. It was fun to watch fellow guests locate and check off the various clues.  

We were very fortunate to have sunny weather throughout most of our early to mid-July cruise. The temperature varied from mid-40s to mid-to-upper 70s (Fahrenheit). Of course, layers are always recommended in Alaska, along with a rain-resistant coat or light jacket and comfortable shoes. 

As for what to pack, Oceania runs an elegant but casual ship. For men, long-sleeved, collared shirts with slacks were fine in the evening and on slightly more formal nights, a blazer or suit. For women, blouses and pantsuits were fine, but of course for those who wish to dress up, gowns were also not out of place. 

By day, it was all about casual and comfortable wear, with a modicum of common sense, like no bathing suits or bathrobes in the dining areas.

From Space Needle To Klondike And Back

Sailing from Seattle was especially nice as Oceania uses the Pier 66 terminal, which is a short walk from Pike Place Market and other downtown attractions and hotels. We enjoyed a scenic departure with Mt. Rainier looming in the backdrop as the local ferries crisscrossed in our wake. 

A full day at sea followed, allowing us to rest up and get to know the ship before a late morning arrival in Ketchikan. 

Riviera berths at Ward Cove, which is a 20-minute shuttle (included) ride from downtown, where all the other cruise ships berthed. Ward Cove is where they have the lumberjack show and is a destination in and of itself with a huge shed filled with shops and snack bars.

We anchored at Juneau the next day among a flotilla of cruise ships, great and small. Aside from a very commercial waterfront lined with shops, Juneau has several nice museums and a quaint historic district in addition to the state capitol. 

We had intended to ride the Mt. Roberts tram to capture some spectacular views, but it was closed for maintenance. So, we made a U-turn at the tender landing and headed straight back to enjoy the uncrowded ship.

At Icy Strait Point, a modern tourist haven developed by Alaska Native-owned Huna Totem Corp. in Hoonah, we took that pricey zip line excursion and were not disappointed. Admission includes a scenic gondola ride to the top of a small mountain where there are great views and a trail that leads out to a small lake. 

I’m terrified of heights, so the zip line was a definite adrenaline rush for me, although admittedly I did not look directly down. 

Icy Strait Point has some nice shops within a replica salmon cannery and plenty of snack bars as well as low-impact hiking trails that meander through the local forest. It’s a man-made slice of Alaska but not without its charms.

In the ice fields of Hubbard Glacier the following day, we kept a safe distance as the Riviera pivoted around several times, providing a good view of the glacier from all parts of the ship. It was nice to have access to the crew area on the forward Deck 7 fo’c’sle, where a makeshift bar was set up offering for purchase “spiked” coffees, which for a line like Oceania, should have been complimentary.

In Skagway, we were one of four large cruise ships that kept the downtown area bustling. We wandered off the beaten track to explore the trails lining the riverbed near the White Pass and Yukon railway tracks before returning to the ship in time for tea.

In Sitka, Riviera berthed at the cruise terminal, which is a 10-minute or so ride from town, and rode the complimentary shuttle to explore on our own on a picture-perfect day. There is a nice waterside park with totems and some friendly shops. But don’t miss the Sitka Tribal Community House gift shop, which has some beautiful Tlingit merchandise and a theater where native cultural shows are performed. On our return to the shuttle, we also visited the onion-domed St. Michael’s Church.

In Wrangell, it was yet another laid-back day with good weather, so we walked a mile or so for a visit to the beach with mysterious petroglyphs.

We had a day at sea as Riviera made her southbound retreat, then stopped at Klawock on Prince of Wales Island, which was a first for me. We took the local shuttle (alas, even a ship the size of Riviera was a bit overwhelming for the local infrastructure and there were often long waits) to the nearby town of Craig, and then to even smaller Klawock (population 720) itself, which has one of the largest totem parks in Alaska. The weather was fantastic that day, so we opted out of waiting for the return shuttle and walked back from the park, encountering bald eagles and local deer.

But thankfully, no bears.

Another day at sea followed before our final port of call, Victoria. Although there was a local shuttle being offered at $10 each way per guest, $15 round trip, we opted to walk from the cruise terminal for a self-guided tour of this beautiful Canadian hamlet. We visited the Empress Hotel, where there is a legendary afternoon tea, the architecturally splendid Neo-Baroque parliament building, and the local Chinatown. 

On a sunny day with all the gardens in full bloom, Victoria is a slice of heaven.

We disembarked the following morning in Seattle, skipped the long taxi queue and rolled our luggage off to the light rail for a 40-minute ride to the airport that capped off a very pleasant Alaskan adventure with Oceania.

While there have been a few tweaks to the Riviera that I don’t particularly like, overall, Oceania is still heads above most of its upper premium peers. 

The Riviera, and her sister Marina, are the shining jewels in the fleet for their spaciousness, great staff, overall excellent cuisine and included dining options, impressive art collections, beautifully designed staterooms and suites and elegant decor.

Long may they sail!