Dreams of Tahiti: Sailing French Polynesia With Windstar
With more than 75 cruises around the world under our belt, French Polynesia is one place that actually exceeds the hype and remains one of our most memorable cruises.
Popularized in the Broadway musical South Pacific; the topic of books by James Michener and Herman Melville; captured on canvas by Paul Gauguin; and immortalized in “Mutiny on the Bounty,” it is a veritable paradise on earth. The nation is comprised of some 120 islands nearly halfway between Sydney and Los Angeles, the largest of which is Tahiti.
Windstar has a long legacy of cruising here — they just marked their 40-year anniversary this August. For most of that time, it was on Wind Spirit, a 148-passenger sailing yacht. In 2024, they transitioned to Star Breeze, a 312-passenger motor yacht that would serve the region year-round. In 2027, Star Breeze will be joined by another sailing yacht, Star Wind, expanding their reach to more islands.
When Star Breeze initiated service there in February, 2024, we had an opportunity to experience this island paradise for ourselves on Windstar’s seven-night, “Dreams of Tahiti” cruise. The roundtrip itinerary would take us from Tahiti to Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Huahine. Our trip from Florida’s Palm Beaches to Papeete, Tahiti, covered some 5,600 miles, starting with a flight to San Francisco, where we connected with French Bee for the almost eight-hour journey to Papeete.
Upon arriving at Fa’a’ā International Airport, we were immediately welcomed into the culture with an enthusiastic “La Orana!” (Hello), island music, and a presentation of a Tiaré, the national flower of French Polynesia. Snow white and star-shaped, it is traditionally worn behind the ear to designate your relationship status. We were already falling under its spell.
A Yacht Made for Paradise
Having previously sailed on sister-ship Star Legend, we were familiar with many of the features on Star Breeze. Both ships were originally acquired from Seabourn (along with Star Pride) and were “stretched” and updated in the $250 million “Star Plus” initiative. With its small ship, yacht-like experience, Windstar ranks as one of our favorite cruise lines. On board, the vibe is relaxed and informal — even the bridge is open for viewing most of the time. The captain and officers freely circulate among the guests, and the crew is ready to help whenever needed.
Our French balcony suite featured an upgraded bath, seating area and walk-in closet.
In partnership with the James Beard Foundation, we had upgraded dining choices at Amphora, the main dining room; two specialty restaurants, Cuadro 44 (since replaced with Basil + Bamboo); and Candles, part of the al fresco Veranda.
Star Breeze offers plenty of spaces to mix, mingle and relax. Our favorite was the Yacht Club, with its panoramic, wrap-around windows, along with the Compass Rose lounge and the Star Grill, and bar on deck 8.
Besides the pool and hot tubs, there’s a movie theater, spa and water sports deck where guests can launch a kayak, swim, paddleboard, or relax on a floating platform, conditions permitting.
The Spirit of the Islands
Just as notable, Windstar does a good job of immersing guests in the culture of the islands. We were joined on the cruise by Pearl, a French Polynesian cultural ambassador, who both entertained and educated guests about her country.
We heard from a local Tahitian named Tihoti, who related the history and tradition of elaborate Tahitian tattoos. One night, we were entertained by the Mammas & the Pappas Folkloric group, which included lessons on learning how to wear and tie a pareo (sometimes called pāreu), a wraparound skirt worn by both men and women in the islands. Tahitian women also demonstrated making a wrist corsage from tropical flowers, and presented them to all the ladies in the audience.
As an extra touch, samples of local Tahitian products were left in the staterooms after turndown service, such as perfume made from the Tipanier, a flower found throughout Polynesia.
Where Mountains Meet the Lagoon
As we approached our first stop, neighboring Moorea, the island’s tall, green, volcanic peaks make a stark contrast to crystal-clear waters in every shade of blue, creating a scene of a postcard come to life. Heart-shaped, or some say favoring the imprint of a reptile’s foot (Moorea means “yellow lizard”), our tour took us to pineapple plantations, ancient stone temples, and the scenic Belvedere Lookout, offering a panoramic view into two bays and the Opunohu Valley.
On Raiatea, the second largest of the Society Islands, we had a chance to learn more about what is one of French Polynesia’s most fabled exports: Pearls. Stopping at the Vairua Perles pearl farm, the complex process of producing pearls, which can take two years or more, was demonstrated.
Raiatea is also recognized as the birthplace of the Polynesian peoples. Taputapuatea Marae, on the southeast coast, is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a 1,000-year-old temple where chiefs from all across the Pacific once gathered. Our tour continued to the Botanical Garden, an almost nine-acre nature park on the banks of the Faaroa River. The streams here are home to freshwater eels, spiritually significant in Polynesian mythology as guardians of the land. Our guide also talked about the Tiare Apetahi flower, which blooms high on Mount Temehani. Despite all efforts, Raiatea is the only place on the planet where it will grow.
Next up on our cruise was a visit to a motu, one of the many, small private islands scattered throughout French Polynesia. On Motu Mahaea, Windstar arranged for us to have a beach BBQ. Using Zodiacs, we were ferried over eight at a time through translucent, blue-green waters to spend the day lounging on the beach, playing water sports, sipping cocktails and enjoying delicious food. As the saying goes, just another day in paradise.
Bora Bora After Dark
Then it was on to maybe the world’s most famous choice for an idyllic honeymoon: Bora Bora, with its five-star hotels and bungalows built over the water. World renowned for its snorkeling in aquamarine waters teeming with marine life, our tour here took us to highly ranked Matira Beach and a bustling marketplace, with a stop at what’s been called French Polynesia’s most famous bar and restaurant, Bloody Mary’s, which has played host to celebrities like Ringo Starr, Harrison Ford and Jimmy Buffett. Along with indelible memories, Pam also left with a set of Tahitian black pearls.
While here, Windstar treated all of us to a Destination Discovery Event on a nearby private motu — an iconic Polynesian Feast & Fire. We boarded a catamaran for the ride over, where we were greeted by staff who hung flower leis around our necks.
After a scrumptious beach BBQ buffet, dining on tables under strands of hanging lights, it was time to gather for the main event: Tahitian fire dancers. Fast-paced and acrobatic, and rooted in Polynesia’s history, the dancers were almost close enough to touch. My camera was working overtime to capture the action in photos and video.
Into the Quiet Blue
After saying “nana” (Tahitian for “goodbye”) to Bora Bora, we headed for the serenity of Huahine, the Nature Island, home of the sacred Blue-Eyed Eels. Considered the embodiment of ancestral souls and protected by law, their eyes glow porcelain blue. While we didn’t have an opportunity to see them, we did board an outrigger boat to have a picnic, Polynesian-style.
We sat at tables set in the water, small fish swimming around our feet, while our host prepared a delicious, fresh tuna ceviche for us to enjoy. Afterwards, he steered us to a secluded spot for some snorkeling among rainbow-colored fish.
One Last Taste of Paradise
Our last port of call was where we started: Papeete, the capital city of Tahiti. After disembarking Star Breeze, it was an opportunity to take a quick look around the island’s north coast, where we found a waterfall, a blowhole and a lighthouse, along with scenic volcanic, black sand beaches.
Not ready for this once-in-a-lifetime adventure to end, we returned by ferry over to Moorea, where we spent three more amazing days. If you go, definitely stop at Rudy’s restaurant and try their signature dish — parrotfish. And if you find a street vendor selling freshly baked coconut bread, stock up. It’s the best bread you’ll ever taste.
Not only is the scenery spectacular, but we also found the people warm, friendly and welcoming at every stop. English is widely spoken, and you can spend American dollars, but be sure you have the local currency as well.
Like the songs Rodgers and Hammerstein penned for South Pacific — “Some Enchanted Evening” and “Bali Ha’i” — French Polynesia will stay with you long after you board the plane for home.
