Fires, Royal Voyages, and Vanishing Ships
Dutch Threesome
A ship historian friend and I recently discussed three of Holland’s best known and beloved liners: the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt (1930), Oranje (1939) and then the Willem Ruys (1947). Each was designed in the days of European colonial services – from Holland out to the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia). They were fascinating ships – but together we noted a coincidence: Each ship was subsequently destroyed by fire.
The Johan van Oldenbarnevelt – fondly known simply as “the JVO” – joined the Greek Line in 1963, becoming the Lakonia, but mostly for British cruising from Southampton. But on December 22, 1963, during the fully-booked Christmas-New Year cruise, the aged ship was destroyed by fire. Sadly, 128 passengers and crew perished. Seven days later and while empty, blistered and under tow, it sank 250 miles west of Gibraltar.

The Oranje was sold to the Italians, the long vanished Lauro Line, in 1964 and thoroughly rebuilt to become the Angelina Lauro. Chartered to the Costa Line in 1977, it was gutted by fire while docked at St. Thomas on March 31, 1979. Later refloated, it sank, however, while empty and under tow (on September 24, 1979) while bound for a Taiwanese scrapyard.

Finally, the Willem Ruys also went to the Lauro Line and in 1965 became the vastly rebuilt Achille Lauro. It later became internationally known when, on October 8, 1985, it was seized by Arab terrorists while on a Mediterranean cruise. But more troubles were ahead: On November 30, 1994, the ship caught fire while off Somalia (East Africa), was abandoned and then sank two days later.

Growing, Growing, Growing
As an example, and In just about 60 years, Princess Cruises has gone from the 250-passenger Princess Patricia to their brand new, 4,300-bed Star Princess.

Swedish Connection
Last August, a Swedish friend reported that there was no mention in the Swedish press of the demise of the former Stockholm now being scrapped in Belgium but as the Astoria.
I recall being onboard P&O’s Sea Princess in August 1984 and arriving in Stockholm … the ship was the former Kungsholm of 1966 of course (seen below) … the ship’s first visit to Sweden since its Swedish American Line days … but no attention, no press, not even interest from people along the dockside … curious, I thought! … so now, with the ex-Stockholm, all links to SAL are gone!

Saved & Preserved
The tiny passenger ship La Palma (seen below) lives on as a maritime museum in the inner harbor of Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the Canary Islands. Indeed, a maritime keepsake! The 113-year-old ship dates from 1912, the same year as the Titanic and its infamous sinking.

The 894-ton La Palma, which carried up to 190 passengers in three classes, was built originally for Spanish-flag service between the Canaries and West Africa. A coal burner until as late as the early Fifties, the 11-knot ship was finally retired in 1976 and then sold to private owners to become a night club. But nothing happened and the 210-ft long ship fell into deep decline. Fortunately, it was given to a local preservationist group at Santa Cruz in 2003 and has slowly and carefully been restored ever since. These days, it is well cared-for and painted – and actually resembles a toy boat of yesteryear, the kind made of tin and where you’d put a key into the smokestack, the propeller turned and off it would go – well across bathtub water or kitchen table!
Ships in Port
Our dear friend Tony Davis was aboard the Queen Mary 2 in early October; we were aboard the Viking Mars. We met in Quebec City and he took the photo below.

Remembrances
From over in London, Celia Smith-Jones wrote to tell me that her all-time favorite ship was the Sagafjord.
“It was cozy, luxurious, pampered, friendly – just like a big yacht. And everyone, or just about everyone, seemed to be know one another. It was like a club!”

Royal Voyage
Even the exiled king and queen of Italy were together with their four children when they took part in the Mediterranean/Greek isles cruise purposely organized by Queen Frederica and her husband King Paul of Greece in 1954. It became known as the “Cruise of the Kings”. It was attended by over 100 royals from all over Europe. But since the ship’s voyage began in Naples, the Italian royal family could only board later, in Corfu in Greece, as they were not allowed to set foot on Italian soil. Nevertheless, on this trip, their daughter Princess Maria Pia met her future husband, Prince Alexander of Yugoslavia. After all, the cruise was partly meant by Queen Frederica to be “royal meet and match”.

The year-old, 5,500-ton Agamemnon (seen below on the left), built at Genoa in 1953 as wartime reparations to Greece, and its twin sister Achilleus, were created purposely for regular service across the Eastern Med – alternating from Venice to Brindisi, Piraeus, Alexandria, Limassol, Beirut, Alexandria, Piraeus, Naples & Marseilles and then reversing. Accurately, the 416-ft long sisters were hardly overly luxurious, but they were comfortable. They were owned by shipping tycoon Petros Nomikos (the Nomikos Lines), a loyal friend to the Greek king and queen. He canceled a regular voyage and chartered the 17-knot ship to the royal couple.
The Second World War had “ruptured” relations between Europe’s royal families and so German-born Queen Frederica (she was a granddaughter of the last Kaiser, in fact) saw it an ocean-going “reunion”. Furthermore, as European tourism resumed, the strong-willed Queen wanted to promote Greece as a tourist destination. The cruise was actually underwritten by monies the late shipowner Eugen Eugenides (Home Lines) had left Frederica for the promotion of “international tourism in Greece”. Frederica also saw the cruise as a way that enabled young European royals to meet & perhaps marry.

The two Nomikos passenger ships normally carried just over 400 passengers – 150 in first class, 150 in second class and 100 in lower-deck tourist class. Each ship had 5 suites with full bathrooms and sitting rooms; otherwise, only some of the remaining first class cabins had private shower & toilet only and none in second class. How the royals were assigned their accommodation is uncertain. But there was no shortage on the guest list.
Altogether, there were 104 royals – some quite junior, others quite elderly – onboard. The British royal family was among those that politely declined, but the likes of Queen Juliana of the Netherlands (and the future Dutch queen, Princess Beatrix) happily accepted. So did Grand Duchess Charlotte of Luxembourg. The Swedish & Danish royal families joined with the former kings of Rumania, Bulgaria and aforementioned Italy. Then there were long lists of princes & princesses, dukes & duchesses and below. Dining room table assignments were changed each day as well as well-planned shore excursions in each port. The full itinerary read: Marseilles, Naples, Corfu, Rhodes, Santorini, Mykonos, Skiathos, Cape Sounion and finally Piraeus (for Athens).

The cruise was dubbed successful and repeated two years later, but on sistership Achilleus.
Post Script: Just in case, you are interested further: In 1958, the Agamemnon and Achilleus were sold to Olympic Cruises, a new cruise firm created by another Greek tycoon: Aristotle Onassis. But it was rather shortlived: Onassis pulled out of cruising in 1963 and the ships were sold to Dorian Cruises, also Greek. The Agamemnon capsized at her Piraeus berth in 1968. Later salvaged, she was laid-up and then scrapped in 1974. The Achilleus was sold to Kavounides Shipping Company in 1968and refitted as their Orion (seen below). It was scrapped in 1998.

Grand Voyage
Looking through some old files, I saw the notation for the France’s very first of two luxurious world cruises. The first would be a 91-night voyage, departing from New York on January 10, 1972. Ports of call: Nassau, Trinidad, Rio de Janeiro, Falkland Islands, Punta Arenas, Valparaiso, Easter Island, Papeete, Suva, Noumea, New Guinea, Bali, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Colombo, Bombay, Zanzibar, Reunion Island, Capetown, Luanda, Dakar, Cannes, Madeira and return to New York.


In the Mailbox
Had an email asking about the Soviet cruiseship Kazakhstan (seen below sailing from New York in 1977). The reader had done a cruise if a short one on the little liner then operated by Manhattan-based March Shipping Company and typically asked what became of it. Well, we checked – it later became the Ukraina, then the Tampa-based Royal Seas and then the Island Adventure (for Florida’s Sea Escape Cruises) before being laid-up for some years. It was auctioned off to Indian scrap merchants in 2012.

In the file drawer
The cover of this menu from Home Lines says a lot, I think, about the glories and pleasures of ocean liner travel. The voyage is Hamburg to Montreal onboard the Homeric. The date: August 1960.


